Larger engines are harder to turn, which makes battery output another critical factor in choosing a new battery. Choose a battery designed to fit the lawn mower in question. Installing a U1L battery in a lawn mower that requires a U1R battery may be impossible, as the cables may not reach the terminals, and “stretching” the battery cable could lead to chafed insulation and a dangerous short circuit problem. While the internal construction of U1L and U1R batteries is identical, the terminal position is critical to the battery’s installation and connection to the lawn mower’s electrical system. Group U1L lawn mower batteries feature the positive (+) terminal near the left corner, on top of the battery, while Group U1R batteries feature the positive terminal near the right corner. Group U1 lawn mower batteries come in two varieties, U1L and U1R, which refer to terminal position. There are two main characteristics that you need to match up to ensure the lawn mower starts and charges reliably: terminal position and cranking amps. Fortunately, most lawn mower batteries fall into the 12 V Group U1 format, standardized by BCI (Battery Council International), but they aren’t all the same. Then, the starter solenoid might not even click when it comes time to mow the lawn, which means you’ll need to replace your lawn mower battery. Still, it will eventually corrode or sulfate, gradually suffering reduced power output, ability to keep a charge and ability to start. With proper use and maintenance, a typical battery might last three or four years, perhaps longer in a warmer climate. Just like batteries in cars and trucks, the lawn mower battery makes this convenience possible. While most push lawn mowers are pull-started, a few walk-behind and almost all self-propelled, riding lawn mowers feature electric starting, which makes it easier to start their larger engines.
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